Još uvek se pitam da li je neko, na dosadašnjem putu modernog srpskog vinarstva, efektnije iskoristio sopstveni debi od menadžmenta vinarije Matijašević. Nakon samo dve berbe, i isto toliko godina na sceni, osvojili su gotovo svaki segment tržišta. Sa „osnovnim“ vinom Sovinoa iz prve berbe, postigli su zavidan rezultat na najznačajnijem internacionalnom takmičenju. Zlato na DECANTER WORLD WINE AWARDS nije pokolebalo ambicije agilnog tima da svojim radom pomeri i sortni izraz smederevke. Tako, sve glasnije nude novo lice tog umornog autsajdera i ne mire se sa činjnicom da je smederevka trenutno isključena iz većine aktuelnih tokova. Sa druge strane, njihov rad sa crnim sortama objektivno zaslužuje bar još dva pasusa…
Evidentno je da ništa nije prepušteno slučaju, da su planovi vrlo precizno skovani a da su eksperti, angažovani u vinariji i njihovim vinogradima u Šumadiji, za kratko vreme dosegli svoje najviše potencijale. Za očekivati je da se na postignutom ne zadrži niko od njih. To potvrđuje i realizovani projekat kroz koji bi trebalo da evoluira i najjači adut u njihovom špilu– sauvignon blanc.
Stil koji je proslavio bard Kaliforije, Robert Mondavi, implementiran je u sortu koja je pokazala vrhunski potencijal pokraj Orašca. Šumadinci su najbolje od najboljeg, što je dao sauvignon blanc sa Orašačkog brda, odnosno mikrolokacije interno nazvane „kod Duda“, fermentisali i odležali na kvascima čak 9 od ukupno 12 meseci. Posebno izrađene Mercier bačve od 500l su imale striktan zadatak da sačuvaju bogatu aromatiku, mineralnost i strukturu koja je još u prvoj berbi prepoznata kod sirovine sa ovog poteza.
Barikirana Sovinoa Fume Blanc je, pre svega, svoje „školovanje“ u hrastu predstavila kroz nešto zatvoreniju boju od one na koju smo navikli kod Sovinoe sa belom etiketom.
Na nosu je veoma ekstrovertna, sa izraženim intenzitetom mirisa. On je pre svega „sovinjonski“, uz koji izniču i neizbežno usvojeni tragovi jednogodišnjeg odležavanja u novim francuskim bačvama. Neizbežan „zeleni“ štih slojevito su sačinjavale arome nalik na šumsku paprat, grm koprive u fazi cvetanja i naravno miris peteljke paradajza. Veoma precizno predstavljen, aromu po aromu, mirisni profil je propraćen i nekolicinom tonova iz voćno- citrusnog klastera. Vegetalnost je sa voćnim tonovima povezana najfinijom aromom sveže presečenog lajma, na šta se kasnije nadovezuje spektar aroma nalik na limunsku travu, ananas, žutu dinju presečenu mirisom crvenog grejpa. Zbilja kompleksno vino dodatno su komplikovali, ali nipošto opterećivali, permanentni vanilinski i biskvitni tonovi…
Sovinoa Fume blanc je na ukusu popuno suvo vino, sa veoma snažnom strukturom koju predvode dobro očuvane srednje (+) kiseline, na koje se nadovezuju ostali strukturni elementi, poput snažnog ali dobro balansiranog alkohola od 14%. Priličan intenzitet ukusa se ne skriva i svoje bogatstvo vodi u glomazan osećaj punoće tela. Na ukusu dominiraju osvežavajući citrusni tonovi, koji čudno kontriraju prijatnom, mekanom osećaju kremaste teksture kod svakog zahvaćenog gutljaja.
U ukupnom, radi se o veoma kompaktnom i dobrom vinu, jasno i precizno definisanom u svakom segmentu organoleptičkog promatranja. Izraženog je finiša i solidnog potencijala za odležavanje. Svoj vrhunac će uhvatiti kroz par narednih godina, u zavisnosti od toga kako ćemo paziti na njega u tom procesu.
Od osnovnog sovinjona vinarije Matijašević, Sovinoa Fume Blanc je odvojena vrlo atraktivnom estetikom boce koja ime Sovinoa samouvereno svrstava u nekolicinu veoma moćnih vinskih brendova Srbije. Sve navedeno bi trebalo staviti u kontekst vremena, koje bi egzaktno odmerilo postojanje vinarije Matijašević na našem tržištu. Kroz tu prizmu bi se moglo zaključiti da su mlade nade srpske vinske scene dobro izučile, odveć, dobro utabane staze koje vode ka uspehu. I dokazale da se iste mogu istrčati u rekordno kratkom roku.

Sovinoa Fume blan je vino koje je veoma lako za servis, neophodno je ohladiti je na temperaturu između 12 i 15 stepeni Celzijusa i razliti je u standardnu degustacionu „rizling“ čašu. Razume se da bi joj prijala i neka od čaša posebno namenjenih vinima koja su barikirana. Uparivanje sa hranom može ići sa jednostavno pripremljenim pastama, poput onih iz koluta parmezana, ili jednostavno zakomplikovanih belim lukom, sušenim paradajzom i vrhunskim maslinovim uljem. Ništa manje kavaljerski prema ovom vinu neće biti neko od jednostavnih specijaliteta sa rečnom ribom ili neki sočni divlji brancin iz Jadrana.
Štopciger rejting: 94/100 pts.
Maloprodajna cena: 3000- 4000rsd
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