U potrazi za vinima, koja su prijateljski nastrojena prema budžetu potrošača, nisam mogao da se ne oslonim na tri činjenice koje su Creman de Bourgogne Francois Martenot Brut iz 2018. godine dale značajnu prednost u odnosu na mnoštvo drugih vina iz istog cenovnog razreda.
Prva indikacija sa etikete koja mi je skrenula pažnju naslovljena je u reči Cremant, a ona objedinjuje najfinije francuske penušavce napravljene tradicionalnom metodom izvan granica Šampanje. Ovaj kompleksan metod proizvodi vina povišene kompleksnosti i kvaliteta, u skoro svakom aspektu, u odnosu na ona koja nastaju alternativnim principima proizvodnje koji štede vreme, trud te neizvesnošću opterećene nerve vinara. Cremant je prisutan je u sedam francuskih regija, a najznačanija dolaze iz Alzasa, Loare i Burgundije.
Upravo je to druga, prilično važna odrednica koja Creman de Bourgogne Francois Martenot Brut, u geografskom ali i suštinskom smislu, povezuje sa jednom od najfinijih vinskih regija u svetu. Ni manje ni više nego sa Burgundijom, koja sa svojim mitskim komunama predstavlja sinonim za superiornost mirnih vina od sorti chardonnay i pinot noir, koji je izgradila kroz nekoliko stotina proteklih berbi.
Visoki standardi za kvalitet nesumnjivo su preneti i na penušavce- Cremant de Bourgogne. Što Francois Martenot Brut u 2018. godini potvrđuje, pre svega, razvijenom, veoma pristupačnom i dinamičom nosu. On se, pored domninantno voćnih tonova, fantastično otvara i uvodi čulo mirisa u senzualnu finoću karakterističnih sekundarnih tonova, nastalih u dvanaestomesečnom procesu autolize. Miris zrele žute jabuke i dinje začinjen je fenomenalnim tonom sveže presečenog ananasa na koji se nadovezuju fini tonovi tek ispečenog peciva, pčelinjeg voska i orašastih plodova. U ovom klasteru aroma se, pre svih, nameće miris mlevenog oraha, praćen tonovima badema i pečenog lešnika, koji preuzima dalju inicijativu i nameće se sve do kraja.
Na ukusu je suv, sa umerenim ali sočnim, osvežavajućim kiselinama. Srednje punim telom i prilično finom, kremastom teksturom koju formiraju kontinuirani sićušni mehurići. Intenzitet ukusa je takođe umeren, ali postojan. Vođen je sličnom voćnom impresijom koja se prepoznaje na nosu, te se u finišu zaokružuje finim sekundarnim aromama koje put mirisa uporno vode ka tonovima nalik na sveže samleven orah, pečeni lešnik. Ista čulna slika se produžava nadalje u postojan finiš koji imponuje diskretnom elegancijom.
Sumirajući sveukupni senzorički utisak koji ovaj Cremant ostavlja za sobom, neminovno utiske ukrštam sa začuđujuće pristojnom cenom koja postaje vredan adut, treći u nizu. On potvrđuje tezu da cena nije uvek apsolutno merilo kvaliteta. Creman de Bourgogne Francois Martenot Brut iz 2018. predstavlja tipičan primer ovog izuzetka, te se sa izvanrednim odnosom cene i kvaliteta svrstava u moj najuži izbor best budget vina ovog leta.

Servis je važan segment u formiranju idealne slike ovog Cremant-a. Neophodno ga je dobro ohladiti! Na 3-5 stepeni Celzijusa i ovu temperaturu kontinuirano održavati sve dok vina ima u boci. Čaša koja mu pruža najbolje performanse ne treba da bude uzanog „tulip“ oblika, već standardna „obična“ vinska čaša.
Hrana koju ište ili prati treba da bude lagana i letnja. Idealan je uz ostrige, špagete sa gamborima, bele sireve sa belom plesni. Ja sam ga probao i uz princes krofne. Bio je to spektakl!
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